Coexisting with Wildlife

Skunks are known for getting into garbage cans, digging in yards, and nesting under houses. The thing that skunks are most known for is their ability to spray a pungent liquid when they feel threatened. Occasionally they may kill chickens or other small animals or get into confrontations with dogs and cats. Skunks are unlikely to challenge a cat or dog unless they feel threatened, and they will generally use their spray as a deterrent before engaging physically with an animal they feel threatened by.

For many people, it is the strong odor caused by the skunk that is an issue when they make their homes in and around our homes. It can be overpowering and linger for a long time, which is unpleasant to experience in the place you live. In addition, companion animals – inquisitive dogs in particular – may get sprayed if they get too close to a skunk. Getting the smell out of fur, and preventing transfer of the smell into your home as companion animals make contact with furniture, can take a lot of washing and cleaning.

Garbage cans with lockable lids are available and are the best solution to exclude raccoons. However, these cans may cost in the hundreds of dollars and might not be accepted by local refuse collection service providers. If lockable cans are not used, Garbage cans can be secured by fastening lids with rope, bungee cords, or chains and tying the handle to a stake driven into the ground.

Ensure that access points to either attic space or crawl space under your home are securely blocked.

Don’t leave dog or cat food outside.

Fence off garden areas with the fence buried under the ground.

Use repellents such as capsaicin (hot sauce) to make plants unpalatable.

“Milky Spore” (available at most garden stores) is a natural bacterium that gets rid of grubs in the yard which attract skunks.

Close chickens in at night and surround the coop with fencing that extends 6 to 8 inches underground.

Motion-detecting water sprayers or sprinklers can scare wildlife away.

Misting diluted white vinegar into the air will neutralize the smell of skunk.

Despite best efforts, it may be that skunks find their way into your home. Skunks are excellent diggers and can damage infrastructure including using insulation to make nests, interfering with electrical cables and water pipes, and finding their way into wall spaces. Skunks are generally not great climbers so will rarely make nests in attic spaces, though it is not unheard of. This is not just an annoyance but could cost you significant amounts of money to fix.

Skunks can be safely removed from your home using humane traps:

• Traps designed to catch feral cats, which are cages with doors that close securely when the animal treads on a trigger plate, are ideal size for skunks. Traps costs range from around $25 – $50. The cheaper traps work well for occasional use, whereas the more expensive traps can be used more regularly over a longer time. Once captured, skunks can be either released or taken to a local wildlife rescue.
• Traps can be baited using cat food or dog kibble. Always ensure that you check traps as a minimum every 4 hours to ensure that animals are not left in traps for prolonged periods of time. In inclement weather conditions (heat or cold) traps should be checked hourly. Remember that being contained in this way is both stressful and potentially dangerous for the animals if it persists for a long period.
• To avoid getting sprayed, put a tarp, thick blanket or cover over the top of the trap and approach slowly and quietly from behind when you go to check it. If there is a skunk inside, you can put the cover over the entire trap to transport. Always ensure that the cover has small holes in it to allow airflow. Particularly in hot climates, a covered trap can become dangerously hot.
• Please ensure that you consult with your local Fish and Wildlife Service to check the legality of release of skunks as some states prohibit release and others may require a permit. If your state does allow release, it is recommended that the skunks are transported 10-15 miles from their capture site to prevent them from returning.
• If your state prohibits safe release, contact your local wildlife rescue to seek advice.
• Do not remove the skunk from the trap to transport them as you could be bitten, scratched, or sprayed. Use sturdy gloves while handling the traps and do not hook fingers through the caging to carry the trap. Know that the traps are designed so that the animal cannot injure you while contained.
• When releasing, use gloves and simply open the trap to allow the skunk to run away. The traps are designed to allow you open them without coming into contact with the animal inside.
• Ensure that you know how to set and open the trap before you use it.

Baby skunks are usually born in April or May and are independent of their mother at around three to four months and so will disperse from her in the fall. You can tell if a skunk has made a den in your home by noting whether the adult skunks has prominent nipples if you are able to see her at close quarters. A distinctive trilling and chirping noise coming from the area that the den is located is a sure sign that there are babies there. Ideally, if you can wait to allow the family to leave the den of their own accord, this allows the best chance of the babies surviving and avoids the potential that the mother will abandon her kits.

It is understandable if you do not want skunks to make your home their home for months and so the best course of action is to encourage the mother to relocate with her children. Ways in which you can do this are:

• Use noise as a deterrent. You can set a radio up near the den location and have it play continuously.
• Use scents as a deterrent. You can use ammonia, cayenne pepper, peppermint oil, and vinegar, among other things in areas around the den.
• Use light as a deterrent. Skunks seek dark places to make their dens. Be installing light in the areas where you believe a den is located, this can encourage mom to leave with her babies.

If you are unable to encourage the mother to remove her kits and are unable to wait for them to disperse independently, please contact a reputable wildlife rescue for advice.

Do not block entrance holes to potential den sites unless you are sure that there are no longer any animals present. You can check this by loosely blocking the entrance with hay, paper, or fabric. If it remains undisturbed for two to three nights, you can assume the den is empty.

Skunks will only use their spray if they really have to. The two anal glands, which are responsible for containing the pungent spray, are located at the base of the tail and can only hold a small amount, which is enough for 5-8 sprays. Once the glands have been expelled, they need up to a week to replenish.

Skunks give multiple warnings before spraying. Predators often avoid skunks as, knowing their potential to spray is often enough for them to keep their distance. If the predator does pursue, they will be given a series of warnings. These includes the skunk stomping the ground, slapping their tail, and if they are the smaller spotted skunk, engaging in an awkward handstand.

Skunk spray is pungent and potent and can be sprayed up to 10 feet out. Besides the offensive smell, which can last for days or weeks, the spray is an irritant and can cause temporary blindness.